The top mounts for the Urraco and the Jalpa are no longer available.  It would also be the case that no one knows were the originals came from.  There were two types.  When the top mount bearing starts to fail on the front suspension the car wobbles at high speed.  A number of owners have had alternative mounts made.  These usually include a rose jointed alluminium plate similar to those used in racing cars.

However my feeling is that you should use something much closer to the original if possible.  I have been working along with Robert Box to find an alternative.  Attached are some pictures of a mount we have found that we think does the job.  it is almost exactly the same dimensions as the original.  The base plate is round not traingular but this is easily trimmed down.  The biggest issue is the central hole for the shaft of the shock is 14mm but the top mount is 16mm.  To correct this difference we have developed a pair of high quality Steel top hats which reduce the size.  I have fitted these to my car but am yet to road test them.  (waiting for the engine).  I will keep everyone posted as to progress but we think they are going to work fine.  The most important thing for us is that they are very close to the original design and nothing else on the car needs changing including  the  spring hangers etc.  

Also important is that they are very reasonably priced and will work on front and back of the car.

The newly matched pistons and liners are inserted into the block and are connected to the polished crank shaft.

The small end bearings are no longer available so Modus being automotive genius’ made some.

Modus have put together the pistons and liners ready to insert into the newly cleaned and painted block.

more holes and pins are fitted along the length of the crack until the whole crack is stitchedThe crack is stitched along its whole length with pins glued in place and will also be covered in liquid metal to complete the seal.

A pin is fixed into the hole and sealed in place with Loctite

During the course of the rebuild we found a small crack in the middle of the block.  The crack is at the base of the main oil way.  Its impossible to weld the crack becuase the heat would probably distort the block and the crank would no longer seat correctly.  The very clever engineers at Modus engineering near Tunbridge Wells decided to stitch the crack.  If you’ve never seen this process I have attached some pictures of the crack and the stitiching process.

the pin is glued in placached some pictures. Very clever and my block is good as new.

Good news the clever lads at Modus engineering reckon they can fix the crack in the block by stitching it.  Drilling small holes along the crack and glueing pins in it to stop it spreading and then covering it with liquid metal to stop the water leaking under pressure.

More goods news the crankshaft has been polished and looks good.  New set of journal shells and big ends will do the trick.  We are just trying to track down some shells.