I have taken the master cylinder apart see pictures. There was some rust inside although the bore is reasonably OK. I don’t know that you can purchase replacement seals. If you can I might see if that does the trick as its clutch not brakes. This Master cylinder is used on the Alfa Romeo 105 but that one has a bore of 19mm not 22.3mm which the lambo one has.
having worked on the clutch slave cylinder in my previous post I think the problem lies with the master cylinder. As usual I have attached some photos. I took off the master cylinder. Its a simple job you just remove the clip and pin on the back of the clutch pedal. The cylinder itself is attached by two 13mm bolts so its simple to remove.
The clutch slave has a bolt in it with a washer instead of a bleed nipple. This isn’t a problem but I have been thinking recently that the pedal travel is getting longer. I purchased a self bleeding nipple that will replace the bolt. However when I went to put it in I discovered why the clutch has felt odd. The slave cylinder clip was not in its groove. See the pictures. Because of this the cylinder itself has moved further away from the actuator. I’ve drilled a hole and will tap it with a thread so that I can use a bolt to hold the cylinder in place. When this is done I will replace the bolt with the nipple and bleed the system.
Latest picture shows the finished slave cylinder with the bolt sticking out the side which holds the cylinder in the side. I had to replace the small piece of copper pipe and made this one slightly longer. You can also see the new self bleeding bleed nipple that works very well. I had to seal the threads with some high pressure thread seal to stop it leaking but all seems to be working well. No time for a test drive tonight but the clutch moves well and holds without problem.
Recently the engine has been dropping onto 4 cylinders. It took me ages to find it checking all the wiring. Eventually I discovered a poorly crimped connector on the B side of the low voltage loop. Discovered the problem almost by accident when I was about to buy a new coil. The give away of the source was the rev counter died but the engine kept running.
Moving onto the clutch slave cylinder and the water pump which are really the only problems that are left over. You can see the tiny split in the connector where the wire doesn’t quite reach the end. As the engine got hot the gap widened and the system collapsed. Bugger to find but thankfully a simple fix. I didn’t have to buy a new coil either which I was about to do.
The top mounts for the Urraco and the Jalpa are no longer available. It would also be the case that no one knows were the originals came from. There were two types. When the top mount bearing starts to fail on the front suspension the car wobbles at high speed. A number of owners have had alternative mounts made. These usually include a rose jointed alluminium plate similar to those used in racing cars.
However my feeling is that you should use something much closer to the original if possible. I have been working along with Robert Box to find an alternative. Attached are some pictures of a mount we have found that we think does the job. it is almost exactly the same dimensions as the original. The base plate is round not traingular but this is easily trimmed down. The biggest issue is the central hole for the shaft of the shock is 14mm but the top mount is 16mm. To correct this difference we have developed a pair of high quality Steel top hats which reduce the size. I have fitted these to my car but am yet to road test them. (waiting for the engine). I will keep everyone posted as to progress but we think they are going to work fine. The most important thing for us is that they are very close to the original design and nothing else on the car needs changing including the spring hangers etc.
Also important is that they are very reasonably priced and will work on front and back of the car.