Clutch Slave Cylinder

image imageThe clutch slave has a bolt in it with a washer instead of a bleed nipple.  This isn’t a problem but I have been thinking recently that the pedal travel is getting longer.  I purchased a self bleeding nipple that will replace the bolt.  However when I went to put it in I discovered why the clutch has felt odd.  The slave cylinder clip was not in its groove.  See the pictures.  Because of this the cylinder itself has moved further away from the actuator.  I’ve drilled a hole and will tap it with a thread so that I can use a bolt to hold the cylinder in place.  When this is done I will replace the bolt with the nipple and bleed the system.

Engine Issue

Recently the engine has been dropping onto 4 cylinders.  It took me ages to find it checking all the wiring.  Eventually I discovered a poorly crimped connector on the B side of the low voltage loop.  Discovered the problem almost by accident when I was about to buy a new coil.  The give away of the source was the rev counter died but the engine kept running.

Moving onto the clutch slave cylinder and the water pump which are really the only problems that are left over.  You can see the tiny split in the connector where the wire doesn’t quite reach the end.  As the engine got hot the gap widened and the system collapsed.  Bugger to find but thankfully a simple fix.  I didn’t have to buy a new coil either which I was about to do.

 

dodgy connector

dodgy connector

Head Gaskets

Head Gaskkets

Head Gaskkets

image imageThe next stage of the engine rebuild can start as we have the new head gaskets.  These are a stainless steel construction and are slightly thicker than standard in order to take up the space made by the head skimming.  I will be going with a slightly higher compression ratio so a bit more power.

Urraco Suspension Top Mounts Replacement

 The top mounts for the Urraco and the Jalpa are no longer available.  It would also be the case that no one knows were the originals came from.  There were two types.  When the top mount bearing starts to fail on the front suspension the car wobbles at high speed.  A number of owners have had alternative mounts made.  These usually include a rose jointed alluminium plate similar to those used in racing cars.

However my feeling is that you should use something much closer to the original if possible.  I have been working along with Robert Box to find an alternative.  Attached are some pictures of a mount we have found that we think does the job.  it is almost exactly the same dimensions as the original.  The base plate is round not traingular but this is easily trimmed down.  The biggest issue is the central hole for the shaft of the shock is 14mm but the top mount is 16mm.  To correct this difference we have developed a pair of high quality Steel top hats which reduce the size.  I have fitted these to my car but am yet to road test them.  (waiting for the engine).  I will keep everyone posted as to progress but we think they are going to work fine.  The most important thing for us is that they are very close to the original design and nothing else on the car needs changing including  the  spring hangers etc.  

Also important is that they are very reasonably priced and will work on front and back of the car.

suspension view top hats on the shaft. top mount before trimming top mount on support plate top mount on shaft with spring cupphoto of size adjustorsmount trimmed to fit mount plate.top hats together.